Cooking Crack with the Baking Soda Method; Crack, Glorious Crack. The other way to make a coke freebase is to use ether or ammonia. Put this shit into a beaker and add just enough distilled water to cover the mixture. How to make crack without baking soda or ammonia. Click here to get file. How to make crack cocaine step 7. How to make crack without baking soda or ammonia. Click here to get file. How to make crack cocaine step 7. Photo courtesy u.s. Drug enforcement. Now, pour your dry freebase pile into the glass of water. Ammonia, bi-carb, etc), you'll be carrying all of those adulterants right on thru to the end. Crack cocaine, also known simply as crack or rock, is a free base form of cocaine that can be smoked.Crack offers a short but intense high to smokers. The Manual of Adolescent Substance Abuse Treatment calls it the most addictive form of cocaine. 1 Crack first saw widespread use as a recreational drug in primarily impoverishedinner city neighborhoods in New York, Philadelphia. IF YALL LOOKING FOR IN DEPTH HELP, REMOVED VIDEOS, BONUS VIDEOS, AND OTHER EXLUSIVE CONTENT SIGN UP @ sign up now before t. I've tried to make crack a couple of times with small amounts of coke on a. The pure cocaine solution into a clean shot glass and continue adding ammonia. You can make base-coke with ammonia or with natrium bi carbonate. Donation will be matched 2-to-1, so your $5 gift turns into $15 for us! Now, pour your dry freebase pile into the.
The graphic below represents a cooling unit in full operation. There's a lot to cover here, so you might consider printing this page and going to the bigger graphic to follow along. The graphic may seem a little confusing at first, because quite a few things are happening at once. But, when broken down to a section at a time, it is a fairly simple system.
Boiler. A precise heat (electric heat element or gas flame) is applied to the boiler to begin operation. Heat is transferred from the outer shell of the boiler through the weak ammonia solution to the perk tube. This style of boiler is referred to as the 'new' style boiler. The 'old' style boiler had the heat element holder and chimney connected directly to the perk tube, without the benefit of the outer shell to slow (not prevent) over heating in situations like being run out of level.
The perk tube is provided with a rich ammonia solution (a high percentage of ammonia to water) from the absorber tank. When heated, the ammonia in the rich ammonia solution begins to vaporize (sooner than the water would) creating bubbles and a percolating effect. The ammonia vapor pushes the now weakening solution up and out of the perk tube. The ammonia vapor (gas) leaving the perk tube goes upward towards the top of the cooling unit, passing through the rectifier. The rectifier is just a slightly cooler section of pipe that causes water that might have vaporized to condense and drop back down. The water separator at the top of the cooling unit (only on some models) prevents any water that might have escaped the rectifier to condense and fall back. After this point, pure ammonia vapor is delivered to the condenser.
Meanwhile, back at the perk tube, the weaker solution expelled from the perk tube by the ammonia vapor drops into the weak ammonia solution surrounding the perk tube. Here, a little more ammonia vapor is generated and rises. The weak ammonia solution flows down ward and through the outer shell of the liquid heat exchanger, where heat is transferred to the rich ammonia solution on its way to the perk tube. The weak ammonia solution then flows to the top of the absorber coils and enters at a cooler temperature.
Condenser. Ammonia vapor enters the condenser where it is cooled by air passing through the metal fins of the condenser. The cooling effect of the condenser coupled with a series of step downs in pipe size forces the ammonia vapor into a liquid state, where it enters the evaporator section.
Evaporator. Liquid ammonia enters the low temperature evaporator (freezer) and trickles down the pipe, wetting the walls. Hydrogen, supplied through the inner pipe of the evaporator, passes over the wetted walls, causing the liquid ammonia to evaporate into the hydrogen atmosphere at an initial temperature of around -20ТК F. The evaporation of the ammonia extracts heat from the freezer. At the beginning stages, the pressure of the hydrogen is around 350 psi (pounds per square inch), while the pressure of the liquid ammonia is near 14 psi. As the ammonia evaporates and continues to trickle down the tube, its pressure and therefore its evaporation temperature rise.
The liquid ammonia entering the high temperature evaporator (refrigerator portion) is around 44 psi, while the pressure of the hydrogen has dropped to 325. Under these conditions, the evaporation temperature of the liquid ammonia is +15ТК F. Heat is removed from the refrigerator box through the fins attached to the high temperature evaporator. The ammonia vapor created by the evaporation of the liquid ammonia mixes with the already present hydrogen vapor, making it heavier. Since the ammonia and hydrogen vapor mixture is heavier than the purer hydrogen, it drops down through the evaporators, through the return tube to the absorber tank.
Absorber. When the ammonia and hydrogen vapor mixture enters the absorber tank through the return tube, much of the ammonia vapor is absorbed into the surface of the rich ammonia solution, which occupies the lower half of the tank. Now lighter, the ammonia and hydrogen mixture (now with less ammonia) begins to rise up the absorber coils. The weak ammonia solution trickling down the absorber coils from the top (generated by the boiler) is 'hungry' for the ammonia vapor rising up the absorber coils with the hydrogen. This weak ammonia solution eventually absorbs all the ammonia from the ammonia and hydrogen mixture as it rises, allowing pure hydrogen to rise up the inner pipe of the evaporator section and once again do its job of passing over the wetted walls of the evaporator. The absorption process in the absorber section generates heat, which is dissipated.
The Fuse. The fuse on many cooling units and in this graphic is a steel tube, the end of which is filled with solder. On many Dometics, the fuse is built into the charge plug located at the absorber tank. The plug is hollow and filled with solder. In either case, the fuse is the weak link of the system. If pressure inside the cooling unit were to rise beyond a reasonable level for some reason, the fuse is designed to blow and release the pressure. This would make the cooling unit inoperable, but is necessary for safety.
Out of Level. If the cooling unit is operated in a stationary, out of level position (on any heat source), it will eventually become permanently damaged. Before we go any further, there is one more ingredient inside the cooling unit: sodium chromate. The ammonia solution inside the cooling unit is a mild corrosive, and sodium chromate is mixed with the ammonia solution (ammonia and water) to neutralize the corrosive effects of the solution, protecting the inner pipes of the cooling unit.
Since the cooling unit depends greatly on the effects of gravity for moving the liquids and gases inside, running it off level and stationary causes these liquids and gases to collect in unwanted areas and not be recycled back to the boiler. The liquid level inside the boiler begins to drop and become weaker. Eventually, the water in the ammonia solution begins to vaporize with the ammonia and leave the boiler. At some point, the boiler becomes dry and the temperature rises rapidly inside. The sodium chromate which was once in solution with the ammonia solution is left behind and begins to burn and permanently change state from a powder into a sort of sludge that will eventually plug the perk tube. If left to cook long enough, the sodium chromate will become as hard as steel. If the cooling unit were 'saved' from this out of level condition by being leveled, or the heat source turned off, any sodium chromate that had changed state would not return to a powder in solution with the ammonia solution. This makes it possible to ruin a cooling unit a little at a time.
The new style boiler (see above) helps to prevent this cooking of the sodium chromate, but it can still happen. More often than not, however, the liquid inside the outer shell of the boiler vaporizes, causing the pipe that makes up the outer shell to become super heated and crack, thus ruining the cooling unit. So, although the double boiler effect of the new style boiler may help prevent the perk tube from becoming plugged, it only gives the user a little more time to recognize and correct a problem.
When traveling down the road, the liquids and gases inside the cooling unit are sloshed around and don't collect in unwanted areas, making it all right to travel with the refrigerator on.
With the prevalence of crack, making one’s own seems a little pointless. Why bother with the process at all when you can hit the corner or dial up a $20 and be on the higher plane that much faster? There are a few good reasons why anyone who likes coke and wants to get a bigger rush, without using it IV, should make their own base as opposed to buying street product. But first some basics;
Powder coke is cocaineHCl, that means it is a salt, a hydrochloride salt to be precise, of cocaine base. Cocaine is produced first in the base form, then dissolved in acetone, and reacted with hydrochloric acid to form cocaine hydrochloride. CocaineHCl is for snorting, because it is water soluble, you can smoke it sprinkled in a doob or a hand rolled smoke, but you can’t smoke it in a pipe because the heat level required to vaporize it also breaks down the compound itself. Cocaine base is easily smoked in a pipe on a bed of ash, or in a crack pipe with coarse steel wool.(brillo) When you freebase, you react the HCl ion with a base, removing it from the cocaine, leaving simple cocaine base, which is good for smoking. Some adulterants, meth in particular, will still be there, but it will be smokeable regardless.
Making your own base means you are not at the mercy of whomever cooked the shit up, and even though most people will tell you that crack is just cocaine base, any dealer with an eye for profit can doctor it in numerous ways. If you want base, find some good quality powder(yes I know it comes in chunks), and follow the instructions.
Baking soda base;
Find a good sized soup spoon and clean it. Measure out the amount of powder you want to base in a pile, and make a pile of baking soda beside it about 1/3 the size. I would recommend about .2 of a gram of cocaine to start with. Do not use baking powder, it is different, do not use soda that has been sitting in the fridge for 3 months.
Chop the piles together and put them in the spoon. Balance the handle end of the spoon on a thin book so that the bowl of the spoon is level. Using an eye dropper, or a bottlecap, drip water into the spoon till the soda and coke are covered, and a little bit more besides. Hopefully you are using a big spoon, and the water level is about halfway up.
Sometimes it starts to react right away, and will fizz a bit. Stir it with a toothpick or a match a bit if you want. Pick up the spoon and heat it gently with a lighter held about an inch or two below the spoon. The reaction should fizz away for a while, make sure it does not get too hot, high temperatures break down cocaine, and overcooking can screw up your batch. Slow and steady. Heat it until the reaction stops, and little clear
islands of the good stuff are floating in the spoon.
Now a little technique comes into play, you can skip this if you want. Swirl the contents gently to encourage the little globs of freebase to merge, this will make it a little easier to deal with later.
If you have really shitty coke full of glucose and manitol, you might notice that not much has come back. Some shit blow is less than 20% real coke, so sorry about your luck, and if you have a bunch of shitty coke go to the ether method at the bottom, it is from the 70’s when all the coke was garbage.
Now you wait, putting the spoon in the freezer helps a bit, but sometimes this takes a subjective eternity. The clear oily bits should form into little hard chunks. Wait a little bit more, sometimes they might look solid but are still a little sticky. If you started with good coke you should have a few big pieces and some shrapnel, take the biggest one and proceed to “Smoking it” If it is still in little tiny pieces, dump it out onto a flat coffee filter and scrape up your goods.
How To Cook Up Crack With Ammonia To Kill
Ammonia base;
For this procedure use only hydrous ammonia with no detergent or scent additives(unless you like lemon scented base). This is sometimes a little hard to find, usually “sudsy” original brand is good, and so are a lot of discount brands. Look for words like Pure on the label.
Take your spoon and balance the handle end on a small book so the spoon bowl is level. Toss in your blow, again about .2g is optimal. Use an eye dropper or bottlecap to pour the ammonia over the blow till it is covered, and a little bit more. It will be a less vigorous reaction than the soda method, but it will fizz a bit. Heat gently, and you should eventually get the same result as the soda method. I advise rinsing rocks made this way
The ammonia/ether method;
This is some serious shit. It is for making large quantities of shitty coke into something useful, or for people who are familiar with the dangers of ether. I have only watched this being done, but the results were fucking amazing. So I will try to pass it on.
Getting clean ether is important, the person who showed me this used industrial grade ether. Get ether from a reliable source, if you are tempted to use “starter ether”, which is sprayed into diesel engines to help them fire up, have fun, there are a lot of articles on how to clean it.
Take your blow, and I would recommend at least .5g, and put it in a 2oz shot glass. Add ammonia until the shot is 1/3 full, it will start to fizz and you should stir it with a toothpick until the reaction calms down. Then use an eyedropper to add the ether one drop at a time, stirring it a little after each addition. The ether will settle to the bottom of the shot glass. Once you have the glass about 1/3 full of ether and the rest ammonia, put your palm over the top of the shot glass and while keeping it right side up, shake it gently for a good long time, at least a couple of minutes.
How To Cook Up Crack With Ammonia Tank
Now you are wondering what the hell happened to my coke? Don’t worry, it’s still there, it is just in solution with the ether. Now take the eye dropper, squeeze the bulb, put the end right down to the bottom of the shot glass and draw up some of the ether. Then put the eyedropper over a good sized piece of glass and slowly pinch the bulb so the ether drips out a drop at a time. Allow each drop or two to evaporate before dropping more. The white/yellow stuff forming on the glass is the purest cocaine freebase you will ever get. Scrape it up with a blade, and enjoy.
Smoking it; Use a good steel pipe with a fine screen, place some cigarette or joint ash on the screen, it has to be a fair bit, enough that if it was weed it would be a good bowl, and place your base on top of it. Put a lighter to it and draw in a moderate way, not too fast, not too slow. Exhale a massive cloud of smoke. Feel fucking great for 73 seconds, then chase the rainbow for the rest of the night. Also, you can smoke it in a stem, but setting up each hit nicely will slow you down a bit, and if you do too much good base at once you can have a seizure and die choking on your tongue while your friends fight over who gets your next hit.
C/O
“now that’s entertainment”
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